Kordon's Aquarium Water Conditioners-
Their Use, Their effects, and How and When to Apply Them

This section includes many of the questions that are asked about Kordon Water Conditioners and what is worth knowing about them. The section covers AmQuel, Amquel+, NovAqua, PolyAqua, TransClear, Sea Clear, and products that are affected by them, such as water quality test kits and chemical dye medications.

Following is a list of the topics covered:

A COMPARISON BETWEEN AMQUEL AND AMQUEL+
The Characteristics That They Both Share ,
The Characteristics That Are Different Between Them

WHICH WATER CONDITIONERS SHOULD BE USED FOR WHAT IN AQUARIUM AND POND KEEPING
Which Water Conditioners To Use For New Aquariums and Ponds
Which Water Conditioners To Use For Water Changes
Which Water Conditioners To Use For Eliminating Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates
Which Water Conditioners To Use For Aged Aquariums and Ponds
Which Water Conditioners To Use For New Fish Introductions
Which Water Conditioners To Use For Fish With Frayed Fins and Bruises
What About Rumors That Some Water Conditioners Are Toxic?
What About Rumors That Certain Water Conditioners Are Ineffective and Only Mask Test Kit Readings Without Removing What They Are Supposed to Remove
What About Adding Salt To Freshwater Aquariums and Ponds To Prevent Fish Diseases

PROBLEMS WHEN USING WATER CONDITIONERS
Public (Municipal and Regional) Water Supplies
What is Toxic in Tap Water
What are the Main Problems to Overcome When Using or Adding Tap Water
The Use of Water Quality Tests And Test Kits
Test Strips
Chemical Reagents and Color-Matching Test Kits
Electronic Meters
Analytical Radiometers
Colorimeters
Spectrophotometers

THE EFFECTS OF MEDICATIONS ON WATER CONDITIONERS AND VICE VERSA

THE PROPER WAY TO USE WATER CLARIFIERS

* * * * * * *

A Comparison Between AmQuel and AmQuel+
The two products have similar names and are in the same family of chemicals. However, they are different chemical formulas and have major differences in what they do. Both AmQuel (see KPD-51 ) and AmQuel+ (see KPD-79 ) are reasonably priced considering what they accomplish, but AmQuel+ carries out more tasks and is slightly more expensive.

The Characteristics that both share
The similarities are that both AmQuel and AmQuel+ are fast acting in what they do, accomplishing their tasks within about five minutes after being added to water. Neither AmQuel nor AmQuel+ affect aquatic life, or interfere with the bacteria associated with the nitrogen cycle. Both AmQuel and AmQuel+ eliminate chlorine from the water, such as added by public water suppliers. Both Amquel and AmQuel+ break down chloramines that come in to the aquarium or pond from having been added to the tap water by water suppliers. The ingredients of chloramines are chlorine and ammonia, both highly toxic to aquatic life. Both AmQuel and AmQuel+ in one dose will remove all chlorine and chloramines that are added by municipal and other water suppliers. AmQuel+ will remove over 30 ppm chlorine per dose (one teaspoon per 10 gallons of water), far beyond what any water supplier will use, which may be up to 3 ppm). Most chloramines contain less than 1.0 ppm ammonia. Both AmQuel and AmQuel+ remove all forms of ammonia that are natural in ponds and aquaria. At the dose of one teaspoon per 10 gallons of water AmQuel will remove one part per million ammonia, AmQuel+ will remove a greater amount, at least 1.2 ppm, and usually more than that. Both AmQuel and AmQuel+ remove some of the other nitrogenous organic compounds that are common in aquaria and ponds, with AmQuel+ removing a much greater amount per dose.

The Characteristics that are different between them
Odor: AmQuel has no odor. AmQuel+ does, which some consider to be acerbic. But the odor is harmless to aquatic life, pets and humans, etc., and quickly dissipates.

Removal of Nitrites, Nitrates, and other Organics: AmQuel removes (actually detoxifies) a slight amount of Nitrites and Nitrates and other related organics, but less than 1 ppm, and not enough to be significant. AmQuel+ removes (detoxifies) both Nitrites and Nitrates, and is very different from AmQuel in taking out hefty amounts of these toxic compounds per dose (see Product Data Sheet KPD-79 for AmQuel+ for more information). Therefore, AmQuel+ can take care of the toxicity of the entire nitrogen cycle by detoxifying them - ammonia through nitrites through nitrates, yet still leave the remains available to the nitrifying and other beneficial bacteria to consume them. The beneficial bacteria do not know the difference and eat the nitrogenous compounds that AmQuel+ has provided. This is a major advantageous breakthrough in aquarium and pond keeping in being able to eliminate the toxicity of the entire nitrogen cycle to fishes and aquatic invertebrates . Also, AmQuel+ reduces or removes a range of toxic nitrogenous compounds that otherwise build up in older aquariums and ponds. This allows the need for water changes to be less frequent, which can be a great saving in time and expense.

Affect on pH (Acidity/Alkalinity) of the Water: The AmQuel+ formula is not acidic and its chemical content when added to water does not affect pH. Conversely, the AmQuel formula is acidic. While adding a teaspoon of AmQuel per 10 gallons of water has slight affect on the pH of normal water, it can be an adverse problem, such as to fish in shipping bags in long distance shipments. Due to the excretions of the fish, the water becomes ever more acidic over time. For shipping, AmQuel needs a pH buffer to keep the pH from going more acidic than otherwise would happen. AmQuel+ does not affect the pH, and removes most of the excretions that would otherwise acidify the water in shipping bags, as well as normally in aquariums and ponds.

Any product that removes ammonia may have an adverse affect on aquatic life in exceptionally soft water (water with a very low level of mineralization). The reason is that the ammonia in the water is acting as a buffer to keep the pH in balance at a higher pH level than what it otherwise would be. When the ammonia is removed from the water lacking a buffer - the water quickly drops in pH, stressing and possibly killing the aquatic life. Therefore, care has to be taken in removing ammonia from aquaria and ponds with low mineralization (hardness) in the water. There are claims for some ammonia-removing products that they do not affect pH under any circumstances. However, if they remove ammonia, there is no way that very soft water with ammonia is not going to destabilize and quickly become more acidic.

Which Water Conditioners Should be Used for What in Aquarium and Pond Keeping
There is a lot of confusion over using water conditioners. They are often used incorrectly and often are misunderstood, even by so-called experts. Here is what you need to know to choose the right Kordon water conditioner for your purposes in aquarium and pond keeping and to use them correctly.

Which Water Conditioners to use for new aquariums and ponds
More than most people recognize,there are a lot of different water problems that have to be resolved in keeping fishes and invertebrates in new aquariums and ponds. As public water suppliers have increasing problems due to water pollution of natural aquifers (underground water supplies), rivers and lakes, it becomes ever harder for them to maintain non-toxic water. (See the section "Problems when using Water Conditioners..." in this article) What Kordon has done is to review the records of public water suppliers to see what has to be done to provide products that eliminate all the toxins in the water that they are receiving, as well as the toxic additives that they are using to kill pathogens in the water system. Without going into more details, Kordon provides the right products for aquarists and pond keepers to use that do as many things as possible all at once to quickly detoxify all types of water that are received from public water suppliers, wherever they are located in the country

Fundamentally, there are two Kordon products to use that together cover the full range of water conditions coming from tap water; these are Kordon NovAqua (particularly to handle the toxic metals in the water, and protect the fishes from viruses and bacteria), and Kordon Amquel+ particularly to take out the chloramines, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and other toxic organics). These products are packaged separately to preserve long-term their integrity before use. If new fish are being introduced at this time, see the section below on "...New Fish Introductions". If only chloramines (chlorine and ammonia) are the issue, then the less expensive Kordon AmQuel can be used instead of AmQuel+..

Which Water Conditioners to use for water changes
Same as above.

Which Water Conditioners to use for eliminating ammonia, nitrites and nitrates
There is one Kordon product that is preeminent in removing (detoxifying) the organic compounds that are involved in the nitrogen cycle (see KPD-64 "Biological Filtration") and this is Kordon Amquel+ (see description in the Kordon Reference Guide about AmQuel+, and KPD-79 "on AmQuel+"). If only the removal of ammonia is involved, then the less expensive Kordon AmQuel can be used.

Which Water Conditioners to use for aged aquariums and ponds
Kordon's Amquel+ is unique in covering the elimination of a spectrum of toxic organics that build up in older aquariums and ponds, including nitrates and related nitrogenous compounds. The main test kits to use at this time are for nitrate and pH (acidity-alkalinity). Aged water tends to become more acidic and a pH test kit (see Kordon's AquaTru Test Kits) will provide the answer on this. If the water is too acidic (which happens mostly in fresh water conditions), a partial water change is recommended, or the use of buffers. In marine aquariums the salt water should be changed.

Which Water Conditioners to use for new fish introductions
Kordon has several products that are particularly effective to use with new fish introductions. Since new fishes have to adjust to their tank and pond mates, and are prone to bruises and frayed fins, the use of Kordon's PolyAqua is recommended (see also below). Kordon's AmQuel+ is useful at this time because the new introductions can be stressed in older water in which there is a build up of toxic organics. AmQuel+ will remove (detoxify) them. Also, this is a good time to use Kordon's Prevent Ich (see KPD-78 ) that will suppress the breakout of single-celled pathogens (protozoans and dinoflagellates, as well as fungus). Prevent Ich has the added advantage of being for both fresh and saltwater conditions, and it does not harm live rock and coral reef marine aquariums.

A primary problem with new fish introductions is in the outbreak of fish diseases at the time of introduction. This comes from the new fishes, as well as suppressed diseases in the older inhabitants being passed on to the new arrivals. Always quarantine new arrivals in a separate container and observe them for 3-4 weeks to be sure that they are free of pathogens. This also allows the arrivals to become adapted to your water conditions. For additions to aquariums the use of Kordon's Fish Corral is recommended. This allows the new comers and old timers to adjust to each other. The new fish are put in the transparent "corral" which is placed in the water. Those inside and outside can get used to each other, helping to quell fighting when the new fish are released.

Which Water Conditioners to use for fish with frayed fins and bruises
Kordon developed a particular product ­ PolyAqua ­ to use under these circumstances . It provides thick multiple polymer coatings on the fishes' skin that protect the fishes against harmful viruses and bacteria. PolyAqua contains ingredients to accelerate regrowth of frayed fins, and recovery from open wounds and surface bruises. See KPD 32 on PolyAqua for further information.

What about rumors that some water conditioners are toxic
No Kordon water conditioner is toxic and multiple doses can be safely used. For example, Amquel+ has been tested on various kinds of fishes and other aquatic life at 40 times the standard dose without ill effect.

What about rumors that certain water conditioners are ineffective and only mask test kit readings without removing what they are supposed to remove
With Kordon water conditioners being the original products in the market and being constantly improved to remain the leaders, they are prone to attack by the competition, as well as from well-meaning but misinformed individuals. The assertions that Kordon makes in writing regarding its water conditioners are the truth, based on repeated laboratory testing in several scientific laboratories and extensive testing on fishes, aquatic invertebrates and plants, etc. Everything from spectrophotometers to electron microscopes have been used in these tests. It has been found in some cases that the claims made against Kordon products were in fact based on competitors' products, and Kordon was named because it was the best known. None of the Kordon products are "private labeled" under other companies' names. Novalek, Inc., stands behind its Kordon division's products as being fully effective as claimed, and as manufactured under the highest industry standards of quality control.

What about adding salt to freshwater aquariums and ponds t prevent fish diseases
It has become a fad to add salt to keep down the breakout of fish diseases in fresh water. It is effective, but there are drawbacks and they need to be understood. Most pond fishes and many freshwater fishes are "primary freshwater fishes". This means that their ancestors originated in fresh water and are not tolerant of salts in the water. A low level of salt treatment can be used, but if not subsequently removed can impair the fishes' strength and vitality. Examples of primary freshwater fishes are Koi, Goldfish, Carp, and Barbs (all cyprinid fishes), and Characins and Gouramis. Others that are "secondary freshwater fishes" and are salt-tolerant because their ancestors were brackish water or marine are Cichlids, Live Bearers and Catfishes. Take care when using salt in freshwater conditions.

Problems When Using Water Conditioners
Water conditioners for aquarium and pond keeping are used when water is being added and when other changes are needed in water conditions. This is a critical time when many different things can go wrong, and fishes and aquatic invertebrates can be killed. It is easy to think that if something does go awry, then a water conditioner did it. All Kordon water conditioners are non-toxic and non-stressful to all aquatic life, and they do not adversely affect water conditions. Each production batch is scientifically produced and tested before its release. When something goes wrong, look elsewhere than Kordon water conditioners for what went wrong and what needs to be done.

Public (municipal and regional) water supplies
It is easy to overlook that the aquarist and pondkeeper have to be aware of what is coming out of the water tap. Public water suppliers have the obligation to provide water that is free of pathogens for human use and consumption, particularly from viruses and bacteria. The suppliers do not have any responsibility to provide satisfactory water for aquarium and pond keeping. In fact the two requirements are often incompatible. In order to meet the human requirements toxic chemicals are in the water supply to kill pathogens. Those toxic chemicals that kill viruses and bacteria also harm or kill fishes and aquatic invertebrates. This is why the use of aquarium and pond water conditioners are essential, because they remove the toxins and alter the tap water to be compatible to aquatic life. Many public water suppliers have web sites on the Internet and discuss with warnings the problems that their water provides to aquarium and pond keepers.

What is toxic in Tap Water:
For most regions and for many decades, often for over one hundred years, there has been the need for pathogen-free water in public water supplies for human consumption. Originally, this was accomplished by using toxic metals in the pipes, such as lead, zinc, copper, iron, etc., that killed the pathogens. Over time these pipes have rusted, providing nooks and crannies in which pathogens could survive. Also, pathogens became resistant to the metal toxins. To resolve this problem the use of chlorine was initiated. More recently, with the further deterioration of the water supply and the water pipes, it was found necessary to increase the toxicity of the water and to use chloramines instead. They are combinations of chlorine and ammonia that when combined together synergistically are more toxic than either alone. Now it has become almost universal that chloramines need to be used, particularly for older water systems. Whether considering the toxic metals, the chlorine, or the chloramines, all are more or less toxic to fishes and aquatic invertebrates. The chloramines are particularly lethal. This is why it is important to use the right water conditioners to eliminate these toxins in aquariums and ponds. And to do it right, often more than one water conditioner needs to be used at the same time.

What Are the Main Problems to Overcome When Using or Adding Tap Water
* Water Quality such as Oxygen, Temperature, pH (acidity/alkalinity) and Hardness: The differences in the oxygen, temperature, pH, and hardness of the tap water and the aquarium or pond water can be a severe shock to fish and aquatic invertebrates. There needs to be a slow adjustment of fishes and aquatic invertebrates to new water conditions, particularly when they are being transferred from transport bags into the aquarium or pond. Slowly blending the water for 20 minutes or more is advisable. Delicate aquatic animals will need a longer time. Do not add the water from transport bags into the aquarium or pond. It may contain pathogens. Ample aeration is needed, such as by the use of air pumps, air-stones and surface water movement at the time of adding or changing water. The fishes and invertebrates are under stress, their breathing rate is increased ­ often double or more what it would normally be, and an oxygen level in the water that would otherwise be adequate can become suffocating. The use of Amquel+ in removing toxic organics is also beneficial in increasing the oxygen supply in the water.

* pH fluctuations : Public water supplies in storage tanks become anaerobic and when the water leaves the tap it is unstable in pH, usually towards acidic, and for some minutes can rapidly fluctuate in pH as the carbon dioxide, oxygen, etc., become balanced. These pH fluctuations can be lethal to fishes and aquatic invertebrates. Use one standard dose of Kordon's NovAqua to overcome this and to balance the pH.

* Metal Toxicity : There is going to be to some extent toxicity from one or another of the metals used in the water systems. Use Kordon's NovAqua to remove all the toxic metals. One dose will do it.

* Chloramine, Ammonia and Chlorine Toxicity : This will vary in just about every municipal water supply as they adjust amounts to effectively kill pathogens in the water. This often depends upon the amount of contamination in the water supply and varies from day to day or season to season. Use Kordon's AmQuel or AmQuel+ to remove all chloramines and their ammonia and chlorine. One standard dose of either (one teaspoon per ten gallons, or one ounce per 60 gallons) will break down the chloramines into chlorine and ammonia. AmQuel+ will remove over 30 ppm of chlorine (municipal water supplies use less than 3 ppm) instantly and 1.2 ppm of all forms of ammonia within 5 minutes at a pH of 7.0. It takes several more minutes at higher pHs. Kordon's NovAqua will break down the chloramines into chlorine and ammonia and remove all chlorine instantly. NovAqua does not remove ammonia. In this case the ammonia will need to be removed over days or weeks by the nitrifying bacteria naturally in the water, or a form of AmQuel will need to be used to quickly remove the ammonia.

* Diseases When Adding New Fishes or Invertebrates to the Aquarium or Pond: The addition of water can be at the time of a new set up or when new fish or invertebrates or added. This involves its own set of problems in diseases or acclimatization. New animals often carry diseases. They are definitely stressed, lowing the ability of their immune systems to suppress infections. They may have come from a source, such as overseas, from which they carry virulent disease organisms. If they are being placed with other fish and invertebrates already present, they are the "new kid on the block" and there is stress for both the new and the old requiring acclimatization. All inhabitants will be more or less stressed and susceptible to diseases during the process, and subject to passing their diseases back and forth. Use Kordon's Prevent Ich to keep fungus, protozoan, and dinoflagellate infections under control. See the section on " Kordon Medications" for further help. Use Kordon's PolyAqua to treat for frayed fins, scrapes and wounds, and replacement of slime coating on the fishes that has been lost from stress and shipment. Above all else, when introducing new fish and invertebrates to an established aquarium or pond with inhabitants -- quarantine the newcomers in their own container for 3-4 weeks to be sure that they are not going to come down with disease. If they do, treat them in their own container until the infection(s) are under control

* Cloudiness in the Water When Setting Up a New Aquarium or Pond: This can be an irksome problem and the reason for the cloudiness may not be easily seen. For beginners the main cause is in overfeeding fish before they have become acclimated and have begun to feed. The excess nutrients cause cloudiness in the water. For further information see below the section on "The Proper Way To Use Water Clarifiers".

The Use of Water Quality Tests and Test Kits
One of the most misunderstood topics in aquarium and pond keeping is in water quality tests and test kits. The information most aquarists learn about on water quality is based on technical measurements. For serious aquarium and pond keeping the measurements need to be precise -- for some tests it is in the parts per million where for example in ammonia and nitrite one or two parts per million can be a serious difference. The range of test kits available to the aquarist on the market vary from the near useless to professional technical grade. Many aquarists choose the least expensive kits, expecting them to perform satisfactorily when at the same time they value their aquarium and pond inhabitants as being highly valued. Test kits and their merits deserve attention, because the aquarist is making decisions based on what these kits provide in readings. There are four general types of test kits and their differences need to be understood. The first two type are those that aquarists and pondkeepers generally use.

Test Strips.
These are the simplest and least expensive of the test kits, often providing an approximate reading ­ more of a rough measure of test results rather than a precise measurement. A rough measure can be useful to the aquarist, but for ammonia and nitrite they may or may not be helpful. Test strips are paper strips printed in colors that when dipped in water indicate by changing color what the test results are. Exposure to moisture, repeated wettings and dryings between uses, and aging can degrade their use. Shelf life can be critical for them. Test strips for making quick check ups on water conditions can be very useful. However, the user needs to understand their limitations and be cautious in making his conclusions based on the results from test strips.

Chemical Reagents and Color Matching Test Kits.
There are two types, with liquid or powder reagents. The liquid reagents usually have a shorter shelf life than the powder and are usually less accurate than the powder. The latter range up to scientific grade with a high degree of accuracy. It is in this latter grade that the Kordon water quality test kits reside, using powder reagents in foil packets manufactured by a scientific supplier providing the specifications of the professional laboratory trade. When using any of these test kits attention has to be paid to when the reagents go out of date, which can then read erroneously high or low readings. All of these test kits need to be dated as to expiration and a means provided for replacing out of date reagents.

For all kits the reagents need to be high quality. They all expire after time and the reagents should be dated and the test kits should tell how to get replacements for out-of-date reagents. There are those who do not want to pay the price required for accurate test kits and there are sellers who are willing to accommodate them. But this results in a lot of confusion when the tests do not come out right. Expired reagents either read very high or very low, confusing the user who then thinks something else he has used, such as water conditioners are not acting correctly. Kordon's water conditioners do not go out of date and do not vary from readings as prescribed on the container. If the test kit is reading extremely high or low after using a water conditioner, and it is surmised that the water conditioner is not working properly, recheck the accuracy of the test kit. Also, see the section on Kordon Aqua-Tru Water Quality Test Kits for further information.

Electronic meters.
The most precise readings are from the electronic meters. However, they are more expensive, up to $5,000 and more, and are considered by most aquarists and pondkeepers to be beyond their budget. Nevertheless, for the serious hobbyist, who values his animals, they can pay for themselves in peace of mind and safety. They are available from scientific instrument suppliers.

Analytical Radiometers.
These electronic meters are used for titration with reagents, such as for accurate readings of pH, mV, alkalinity, hardness, calcium, magnesium, chloride, and redox. They use electrodes and potentiometric titration working with liquid samples. They allow automation for handling numerous samples to test.

Colorimeters.
These are more versatile (and usually more expensive) electronic meters using reagents and include the units that are termed "water quality laboratories" for all the parameters that are generally needed to be tested in water quality, including acidity, alkalinity, carbon dioxide, dissolved oxygen ammonia, chloride, nitrite, nitrate, iron, pH, phosphate, turbidity, temperature, iron, hardness, conductivity/TDS (total dissolved solids), etc.

Spectrophotometers.
These are the most expensive for specialized investigations and the most accurate in test readings. Its measurements are based on measuring the relative intensities of light in different parts of the spectrum to identify test results. Spectrophotometers range up to those that can measure over a hundred preprogrammed parameters. There are spectrophotometers that are specialized as easy-to-use water quality instruments

The Effects of Medications on Water Conditioners and Vice Versa
When water conditioners are used at the same time as medications and something goes wrong, it is often the question of whether the water conditioners or the medications are at fault. Except for AmQuel and Amquel+ in use with medicinal chemical dyes (such as malachite green, methylene blue, potassium permanganate, and acriflavine), Kordon's water conditioners are completely compatible with all of Kordon medications and with all others for which Kordon has test results. In the case of AmQuel and AmQuel+ they reduce or remove the chemical dyes but are not in any way toxic. Other than as indicated for AmQuel and AmQuel+, Kordon's water conditioners do not interfere with the medications' actions, and vice versa.

In particular keep in mind with the use of medications that when the aquarist and pond keeper uses his own diagnosis to treat fishes, he is acting as the "veterinarian" and is using medications that would normally be diagnosed, prescribed and administered by a veterinarian. The question is ­ how knowledgeable is that person in making his own diagnosis?

Many medications used in aquariums and ornamental ponds are stressful and may kill fishes that are already far advanced in being infected and near death. Especially unsafe from some suppliers are the treatments that are multiple medications, each component being stressful in itself. This "shot-gun" approach is for those who do not know what disease(s) the fishes have, and perhaps one of the components in the medication will work. For fishes that are extremely ill, this can be toxic, rather than helpful. In such cases a milder medication is needed. A majority of aquarists and pond keepers do not notice serious infections in fishes until they are far advanced, and do not realize just how sick those fishes are. It is not just their fault, because it can be difficult to see fish diseases, sometimes not until it is too late. Often they make the wrong diagnosis and do not use the right medication. For further information on medications see Product Data Sheets under the Kordon Medications category.

The Proper Way to use Water Clarifiers
There is confusion about water clarifiers that need to be "cleared up". There are three basic types: those that kill algae called algaecides, those that kill bacteria that cloud the water white, and those that clear out the particles suspended in the water ­ the suspension looking cloudy brown or another color due to the color of the particles.

Green Cloudiness: When the water becomes clouded green, this means that single-called algae have taken over, due to an excess of nutrients in the water and sufficient light for the algae's photosynthesis. There is no easy way to get rid of the cause for the algae, but regulating excess nutrient sources and light sources can help. Chemical algaecides, all regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) are available on the market. Be careful in using these toxic products and follow their instructions carefully.

Particle Cloudiness: The clarifiers of water clouded by suspended organic or inanimate particles in the water are coagulants or flocculants that stick to the particles and drop them out of the water. They are then removed by filtration. The Kordon water clarifiers TransClear (fresh water) and Sea Clear (salt water) are in this category. They are inert and non-toxic.

White Cloudiness: New aquarium and pond set ups are sometimes prone to have excess nutrients in the water, usually from overfeeding the fish, or from dead fish or invertebrates. At such times gram-positive bacteria become so numerous in the water that they cloud the water whitish to milky white. While harmless to fish and invertebrates, they require a lot of oxygen and can suffocate them. Aquarium filters are mostly ineffective in removing them. The best way to get rid of these living bacteria is to find and remove the source of the pollution in the water. This is extremely important so that fish and other animals in the water are not killed by the pollutants. Once this is resolved, the bacteria, lacking a food source will disappear. The excess bacteria can be eliminated by using a bactericide that kills gram-positive bacteria, such as the antibiotic erythromycin.

Other Kinds of Water Clarifiers: The term might apply to ultraviolet (UV) and reverse osmosis (RO) units that in a sense are water clarifiers. UV kills bacteria and viruses in the water when the water is passed by ultraviolet lamps. RO removes minerals, particles and bacteria by mechanical filtration through a semipermeable membrane.